Posts Tagged: competition

Drought Induced Problems in Our Orchards

Drought Induced Problems in Our Orchards

Abiotic disorders are plant problems that are non-infective.  They are not caused by an organism, but through their damage, they may bring on damage caused by organisms.  Think of a tree hit by lightning or a tractor.  The damage breaches the protective bark which allows fungi to start working on the damaged area, eventually leading to a decayed trunk.  It was the mechanical damage, though that set the process in motion.

Too much or too little water can also predispose a plant to disease.  Think of Phytophthora root rot or even asphyxiation that can come from waterlogging or too frequent irrigations.

Salinity Effects from Lack of Water

Lack of water and especially sufficient rainfall can lead to salinity and specific salts like boron, sodium and chloride accumulating in the root zone.  This happens from a lack of leaching that removes native soil salts from the root zone or the salts from the previous salt-laden irrigation from the root zone.  These salts cause their own kind of damage, but they can also predispose a tree to disorders, disease and invertebrate (insect and mite) damage. 

Lack of water and salt accumulation act in a similar fashion.  Soil salt acts in competition with roots for water.  The more soil salt, the harder a tree needs to pull on water to get what it needs. The first symptom of lack of water or salt accumulation may be an initial dropping of the leaves.  If this condition is more persistent, though we start to see what is called “tip burn” or “salt damage”.  Southern California is tremendously dependent on rainfall to clean up irrigation salts, and when rain is lacking, irrigation must be relied on to do the leaching

As the lack of leaching advances (lack of rainfall and sufficient irrigation leaching) the canopy thins from leaf drop, exposing fruit to sunburn and fruit shriveling.

Leaf drop and fruit shriveling in avocado.

In the case of sensitive citrus varieties like mandarins, water stress can lead to a pithy core with darker colored seeds, almost as if the fruit had matured too long on the tree.

Total salinity plays an important factor in plant disorder, but also the specific salts.  These salts accumulate in the older leaves, and cause characteristic symptoms that are characteristic in most trees.   Boron will appear on older leaves, causing an initial terminal yellowing in the leaf that gradually turns to a tip burn.

Often times it is hard to distinguish between chloride, sodium and total salinity damage.  It is somewhat a moot point, since the method to control all of them is the same – increased leaching.  There is no amendment or fertilizer that can be applied that will correct this problem.  The damage symptoms do not go away until the leaf drops and a new one replaces it.  By that time hopefully rain and/or a more efficient irrigation program has been put in place.

The Impact of Drought on Nutrient Deficiencies

Salinity and drought stress can also lead to mineral deficiencies.  This is either due to the lack of water movement carrying nutrients or to direct completion for nutrients.  A common deficiency for drought stressed plants is nitrogen deficiency from lack of water entraining that nutrient into the plant.

This usually starts out in the older tissue and gradually spreads to the younger tissue in more advanced cases.

The salts in the root zone can also lead to competition for uptake of other nutrients like calcium and potassium.  Apples and tomatoes are famous for blossom end rot when calcium uptake is low, but we have also seen it in citrus.  Low calcium in avocado, and many other fruits, leads to lower shelf life.  Sodium and boron accumulation in the root zone can lead to induced calcium deficiencies and increased sodium can also further lead to potassium deficiencies.  Leaching can help remove these competitive elements.           

Drought Effect on Tree Disease

Drought and salt stress can also lead to disease, but in many cases once the problem has been dealt with the disease symptoms slowly disappear.  They are secondary pathogens and unless it is a young tree (under three years of age) or one blighted with a more aggressive disease, the disease condition is not fatal.  Often times, in the best of years, on hilly ground these diseases might be seen where water pressure is lowest or there are broken or clogged emitters.   The symptoms are many – leaf blights, cankers, dieback, gummosis – but they are all caused by decomposing fungi that are found in the decaying material found in orchards, especially in the naturally occurring avocado mulch or artificially mulched orchards.  Many of these fungi are related Botryosphaerias, but we once lumped then all under the fungus Dothiorella.  These decay fungi will go to all manner of plant species, from citrus to roses to Brazilian pepper.                                

Another secondary pathogen that clears up as soon as the stress is relieved is bacterial canker in avocado.  These ugly cankers form white crusted circles that ooze sap, but when the tree is healthy again, the cankers dry up with a little bark flap where the canker had been.

Drought Effect on Pests

Water/salt stress also makes trees more susceptible to insect and mite attack.  Mites are often predated by predacious mites, and when there are dusty situations, they can't do their jobs efficiently and mites can get out of hand.  Mite damage on leaves is often noted in well irrigated orchards along dusty picking rows

Many borers are attracted to water stressed trees and it is possible that the Polyphagous and Kuroshio Shot Hole Borers are more attracted to those trees.

And then we have conditions like Valencia rind stain that also appears in other citrus varieties. We know it will show up in water stressed trees, but we aren't sure what the mechanism that causes this rind breakdown just at color break.  Could it be from thrips attracted to the stressed tree or a nutrient imbalance, it's not clear?

Water and salt stress can have all manner of effects on tree growth.  It should lead to smaller trees, smaller crops and smaller fruit.  The only way to manage this condition is through irrigation management.  Using all the tools available, such as CIMIS, soil probes, soil sensors, your eyes, etc. and good quality available water are the way to improve management of the orchard to avoid these problems.

Scroll down for Images

Tip Burn, notice sun burn bottom right hand fruit

Endoxerosis with dried out core

Boron toxicity

Nitrogen deficiency

Blossom end rot

Potassium deficiency

Bot gumming in lemon

Black Streak in Avocado

Bacterial Canker

Citrus red mite

Polyphagous Shot Hole Borer damage on avocado

Valencia Rind Stain                        

 

avocado drought canopy

nitrogen deficiency

endoxerosis 4

boron toxicity citrus 1

blossom end rot lemon

potassium deficiency avocado

gumming dothiorella

avocado black streak 1

bacterial canker avocado

citrus red mite

PSHB damage

Wow,There are so Many Avocados on my Tree! Should I Apply NItrogen at this Time?

Nitrogen and its Effect on the Balance of Vegetative and Reproductive Growth

With the big avocado crop out there, the question came up about whether a grower should add extra nitrogen to encourage more canopy growth to protect the fruit from sunburn or whether that would cause the fruit to drop. There is in our understanding the idea that there is a competition for resources and that in that competition one must best another. A commonly held belief is that if you apply nitrogen at the wrong time it will push resources to vegetative growth at the expense of fruit. This is somewhat true for annual plants that get most of their nutrients from outside sources (soil, air, fertilizer, water), but trees have a huge buffer in their storage organs (roots, stems, leaves, etc.). Most growth in trees occurs from this storage source and most importantly from photosynthesis and the sun. The more sun captured the more energy for flowering and fruit production.

So it is this competition for photosynthates that becomes the most limiting factor. When there is not enough to go around, the tree sheds fruit. If you see fruit dropping off a tree after applying a slug of fertilizer, it's a salt effect. Too much salt and it causes a water competition and the tree is stressed.   It's not the nitrogen, but too much salt. With fertigation this is not so likely to happen as when dry fertilizers were applied and someone got too aggressive with the application

In fact a dose of nitrogen fertilizer is a good idea at this time when there are lots of clusters of fruit. This can encourage a flush of leaves that will protect the fruit from sunburn and damage that would cause fruit to drop. Also at this time, persea mite has been building its population and is starting to cause leaf drop. A bit of nitrogen to encourage leaf replacement is a good approach to dealing with this mite damage.

For further reading about the competition between vegetative and reproductive growth as affected by nitrogen (or little affected in fruit trees by nitrogen), D.O. Huett wrote a wonderful review of past research on this topic:

http://www.publish.csiro.au/?act=view_file&file_id=AR9960047.pdf

avocado fruit

Wow, so many avocados! Should I add more nitrogen?

Nitrogen and its Effect on the Balance of Vegetative and Reproductive Growth

With the big avocado crop out there, the question came up about whether a grower should add extra nitrogen to encourage more canopy growth to protect the fruit from sunburn or whether that would cause the fruit to drop. There is in our understanding the idea that there is a competition for resources and that in that competition one must best another. A commonly held belief is that if you apply nitrogen at the wrong time it will push resources to vegetative growth at the expense of fruit. This is somewhat true for annual plants that get most of their nutrients from outside sources (soil, air, fertilizer, water), but trees have a huge buffer in their storage organs (roots, stems, leaves, etc.). Most growth in trees occurs from this storage source and most importantly from photosynthesis and the sun. The more sun captured the more energy for flowering and fruit production.

So it is this competition for photosynthates that becomes the most limiting factor. When there is not enough to go around, the tree sheds fruit. If you see fruit dropping off a tree after applying a slug of fertilizer, it's a salt effect. Too much salt and it causes a water competition and the tree is stressed.   It's not the nitrogen, but too much salt. With fertigation this is not so likely to happen as when dry fertilizers were applied and someone got too aggressive with the application

In fact a dose of nitrogen fertilizer is a good idea at this time when there are lots of clusters of fruit. This can encourage a flush of leaves that will protect the fruit from sunburn and damage that would cause fruit to drop. Also at this time, persea mite has been building its population and is starting to cause leaf drop. A bit of nitrogen to encourage leaf replacement is a good approach to dealing with this mite damage.

For further reading about the competition between vegetative and reproductive growth as affected by nitrogen (or little affected in fruit trees by nitrogen), D.O. Huett wrote a wonderful review of past research on this topic:

http://www.publish.csiro.au/?act=view_file&file_id=AR9960047.pdf

avocado fruit

Water competition

Along the coast, it is very common to see windbreaks protecting the citrus and avocado groves.  Invariably the first two rows next to the eucalyptus trees are shorter and less thrifty than the citrus further away from the windbreak.  This is due to competition primarily for water, but somewhat due to light, as well.  Often by putting emitters on the windbreak, the completion stops. Growers will also root prune between the windbreak and the first row of citrus.  Those roots inevitably grow back and pruning must be done again. This also occurs in areas where there are oak trees or other natives that are planted in or around the orchard.  Growers will frequently plant right up to the canopy or even under the canopy of the native tree(s), with a similar result seen with windbreaks.

It is important to remember the architecture of roots.  Not all trees are exactly alike, but a general rule of thumb is that the active roots go out one and half times the height of the tree.  So a 40 foot tree will have competitive roots out 60 feet away from the trunk.  That’s why it is best to keep a distance away from a competing tree, because avocados and citrus are just not as competitive as an oak or eucalyptus.

In low rainfall years, this competition is even more intense.  Significant defoliation of the crop plant can be seen.  The grower then thinks that it is some disease and ponders what to spray, when they should actually be spraying more water.

windbreak

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